Tag Archive for: dolci della tradizione

For the ninth stage of my Giro d’Italia in 20 Gluten-Free Recipes, I arrived in Tuscany with one of the most iconic sweets of the region: gluten-free Cantucci.

My friend Valentina suggested this recipe to me. She told me that, after her daughter was diagnosed with celiac disease, there were many traditional dishes she thought about, but Cantucci remain among the recipes she misses most. They are the biscuits traditionally served with coffee, enjoyed at the end of a meal with friends, or offered to guests as a symbol of hospitality and conviviality.

Perhaps not everyone knows that what we commonly call Cantucci are also known as Biscotti di Prato. The latter is the name of the traditional recipe that originated in the city of Prato and was made famous in the nineteenth century by the Mattei biscuit bakery. Over time, the term Cantucci gradually became more widespread and is now the name by which these biscuits are known throughout Italy and around the world.

The name Cantuccio also has a curious history. Contrary to what is sometimes believed, it does not refer to the double-baking process, but probably derives from the Latin cantellus, meaning “small corner” or “small piece”. This is thought to refer to the shape of the biscuit, obtained by cutting the dough log diagonally before the second bake.

The double baking, on the other hand, is what makes these biscuits so special. After the dough is first baked as a log, it is sliced while still warm and returned to the oven. This process gives Cantucci their characteristic dry, crisp texture, which has made them famous and makes them perfect to enjoy with Vin Santo, as tradition dictates in Tuscany.

For my version, I chose to use naturally gluten-free flours, making these biscuits easy to prepare at home and perfect to offer to friends or family members with celiac disease, so that everyone can enjoy the same sweet treat together.

And this is precisely the thread running through my journey across the Italian regions: showing that the pleasure of sharing food should never have barriers.

ilaria-bertinelli-cantucci-senza-glutine

Gluten-free Cantucci

63.6 g carbohydrates per 100 g

Ingredients for approximately 40 pieces

  • 180 g whole-grain rice flour*
  • 150 g sugar
  • 150 g shelled almonds, with and without skin
  • 120 g butter
  • 50 g potato starch*
  • 50 g almond flour*
  • 35 g fine whole-grain corn flour*
  • 2 eggs
  • just under ½ teaspoon xanthan gum*
  • 1 pinch of salt
  • rice flour* for dusting

**Ingredients specific for celiacs

*Ingredients whose labels must read “gluten free” (or, in Italy, present on on Prontuario AIC)

Method

  1. Work the whole-grain rice flour with the butter, then add the remaining dry ingredients and continue mixing with your fingertips. Finally, add the eggs and mix until you obtain a smooth, homogeneous dough.
  2. Coarsely chop the almonds and incorporate them into the dough.
  3. Using a little rice flour to prevent sticking, shape the dough into 5 logs approximately 4 cm wide. Place them on a baking tray lined with parchment paper and bake in a preheated conventional oven at 200°C (390°F) for 14 minutes.
  4. Remove the logs from the oven and let them cool slightly for about 10 minutes. Cut them diagonally into slices just over 1 cm thick, then place the biscuits back on the baking tray and return them to the oven at 180°C (355°F) for another 12–14 minutes.
  5. Remove the Cantucci from the oven and allow them to cool completely before serving. Store them in a tightly sealed biscuit tin.

Easter is approaching and with it the traditions of Easter sweet and savoury recipes with which we celebrate it. This year I thought I would share with you the recipe for a biscuit that I love and that was the star of the course dedicated to Italian Biscuits: I am talking about the gluten-free and traditional  Canestrelli  recipe that you can give to your loved ones with the certainty of making them happy, a perfect gift also for Father’s Day.

The Canestrelli recipe between legends and truths

Canestrelli biscruits are so famous and popular that they need no introduction, yet not many people know their history and preparation techniques.

Their origin dates back to the Middle Ages and even then they were so popular to be depicted on Genovini, i.e. the coins minted from 1252 onwards by the Genoese Republic. The value of this biscuit was linked not only to its taste, but also to the ingredients used, namely white flour and butter, which in the hinterland of Genoa, in the Val di Trebbia, were true rarities, so much so that Canestrelli were used for centuries as currency.

And the name Canestrello is also linked to notoriety as it first appeared in an official document in 1576 that reported on a hapless muleteer stabbed and robbed of a ‘basket’ of biscuits (basket being ‘canestro’ in Italian, hence the name of the biscuits), confirming the value that was attributed to this product.

Precious ingredients and… magical mistakes

While it was considered scandalous to ‘waste’ white flour and butter on a biscuit, there is no shortage of legends to explain why hard-boiled egg yolks are used in the Canestrelli dough instead of fresh eggs (in fact, shortcrust pastry made with hard-boiled egg yolks is a specific type of dough that results in cakes with a crumbly, silky texture).

One such story tells of a woman baker who, on the very day she had a large order of biscuits to prepare, did not wake up as usual. Her husband, in an attempt to help her, had hard-boiled all the eggs to have them ready for breakfast the following days. Having no time to buy more eggs, the baker decided to use the hard-boiled yolks to prepare the biscuit dough: these biscuits were so successful that they became famous throughout the region.

As is often the case in Italy, typical recipes have countless local and even family variants, and Canestrelli are no exception, so although they are recognised as Traditional Food Products (PAT) of Liguria, ingredients and preparation may vary slightly from area to area.

But what are their main characteristics?

Definitely the daisy shape that goes from a diameter of about 10cm with scalloped edges to smaller diameters to be eaten in one bite. The central hole is proportionate to the diameter, while the thickness is always quite high, at least 7 millimetres. The colour is barely golden, made even lighter by the icing sugar with which the surface is dusted.

So, are you now feeling like turning on the oven and baking some biscuits? Do you have some paper bags ready to wrap them for daddy or as a gift for Easter? Have fun with my gluten free Canestrelli!

Canestrelli senza glutine

The typical flower shape of Canestrelli

Gluten free and traditional Canestrelli

carbohydrates 64.31g per 100g canestrelli without icing sugar on the surface

Ingredients for 23 biscuits

  • 120g butter
  • 100g gluten free flour mix for bread, brand BiAglut** (wheat flour for a version with gluten)
  • 100g potato starch or corn starch*
  • 50g icing sugar*
  • 2 yolks of hard-boiled eggs
  • grated rind of 1/2 lemon
  • 1 pinch of salt
  • 1 egg white for brushing
  • icing sugar* to complete

**Ingredients specific for celiacs

*Ingredients whose labels must read “gluten-free” (or, in Italy, present on  Prontuario AIC)

Preparation

  1. Put the eggs in boiling water and boil them for 8 minutes; shell them and extract the hard-boiled yolks.
  2. Place the flour, icing sugar, soft butter, starch and sifted egg yolks in a bowl or planetary mixer and start mixing, add the pinch of salt and grated lemon zest, then knead until smooth and firm. Initially the dough will seem dry, but once the butter is mixed in, it will be soft and smooth. Cover the mixture with cling film and put in the refrigerator for 1 hour.
  3. Roll out the shortcrust pastry to a thickness of approx. 7mm-1cm, then cut the biscuits using the flower-shaped cookie mould with the hole in the centre. Brush them with egg white.
  4. Put Canestrelli on a baking tin covered with parchment paper and bake them in a static oven preheated to 170°C for about 15-20 minutes without allowing them to get brow: it is important not to bake them too much!
  5. Let them cool down, then dust with icing sugar.

The mould for cutting Canestrelli 

Version with gluten of Canestrelli

Replace the gluten-free flour with an equal amount of wheat flour.